Day 2 - Monistrol-d’Allier to Saugues - 3 May

Time Departed: 9.30am

Time Arrived: 2.30pm

Distance: 13 kms (+ 6kms being driven from Saint Privat-d’Allier)

Cumulative Distance: 43kms

Percentage Completed: 5.5% (63,600 steps) 

Weather: Cold and overcast 

Accommodation: Hotel La Terrace 

Feelings: Neil - Happy, Henk - Tres heureaux ,  Di - keen, Ann - Keen to start the climb

The day was divided into two sections; the first part of the walk was a steep long climb to the summit at 1100m and the remainder of the day was walking across the mountain ridge on country lanes before descending steeply to the next deep valley where Saugues sits. We left later as it was a shorter distance. We crossed the quick-flowing Allier River on the sturdy, high Eiffel Bridge. This was named after the engineer Gustaf Eiffel whose company designed and built the bridge in the late 19th century. 

As there would be no shops on the way we called into the local baker to pick up lunch supplies of croissants and apples. The shop was quite sparse and at nine thirty it looked like the small population of Monistrol-d’Allier had already bought their bread. Unlike the Camino Frances there is very little opportunity to stop for a coffee break and buy food.

Before leaving town we called into the small local 12th century church on the hill of the town to view the thirteenth century wooden statue called Notre-Dame d’Estours. It was only about forty centimetres high but it was lovely in its simplicity. 

Even though it was cold we soon warmed up with the steep climb. We took it slowly. It wasn’t long before we arrived at the Magdalene Chapel which was built in a grotto below the village of Escluzels in the 17th century. 

As we climbed we had lovely views over Monistrol-d’Allier and the Allier river valley. Just before the summit an enterprising man was selling his locally made paneforte from a small wheelbarrow under large pine trees. It was a popular stopping place for walkers. He gave us a taste and we couldn’t resist buying some.

Along the ridge of the summit we found a spot under large pine trees to shelter from the cold brisk wind to have lunch. Anne has a thermos so we had tea and coffee as well. We only stayed for about fifteen minutes as it was too cold not to be moving. 

After lunch we only had a further seven kilometres to reach Saugues and it was easy walking over an undulating country road among the beautiful green countryside and farms. It became very cold and threatened to rain. As we descended steeply to Saugues we passed unusual installations using old, dead trees as the base. 

In the distance we could see a very tall ugly building in the centre of the city which looked like a silo. It was the English Tower (Tour des Anglias) which was part of a 13th century fortress. The name dates back to the 100 Years War when the English captured Saugues. 

At the hotel Henk and I each had a long hot bath and it felt so good. We headed out later in the afternoon to tour the small town of Saugues which has a population of 2000. We visited the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Medard with its 13th century wooden statues and walked around the English Tower. 

Dinner at the hotel was a jovial affair as we caught up with two groups of Australians we had met the previous day. Four courses were offered and it was a delicious meal. We are being spoilt with such good quality food. 

Tomorrow is a long day so breakfast will be at seven. We need an early start.