Day 22 - Labastide-Marnhac - Montcuq - 23 May

Time Departed: 8.10am

Time Arrived: 3.30pm

Distance: 28kms 

Cumulative Distance: 375 kms

Percentage Completed: 48% (630,900 steps) 

Weather: Sunny and warm 

Accommodation: Hotel la Barguelonne 

Feelings: Neil - Good, Henk - Good,  Di - Keen

It’s been three weeks today since we started the walk at Le Puy-en-Velay and we have almost reached 50%. The time is going quickly with three weeks remaining until we reach St Jean-Pied-de-Port.

It was a bit of a slog today for a whole range of reasons and we are thankful for walking the short distance of six kilometres yesterday to reduce today’s kilometres. The day’s walk was supposed to be 26kms but a relatively new diversion about five kilometres from Monsaq added a further two kilometres. The diversion was through a covered wooded area so that cooled us down as it was a very warm afternoon.

Our walk initially descended from our accommodation through a thick wood and then we were back into the regular routine of climbing to reach the top on the other side. This took about forty minutes and then it was mostly flat walking alongside rich agricultural land with large acres of wheat growing. Other crops have just been planted so we were unsure what they were. We can 

see the difference now that we have moved away from the Lot River Valley. 

There was very little housing and the walk seemed quite isolated across the plateau of Quercy Blanc. After two hours of walking we found a cool spot to rest for fifteen minutes. We did not see many drystone walls today but managed to find one for morning tea. There was also only one shepherd’s hut. 

At one stage two low-flying very loud airforce jets flew over us. The sound reverberated across the countryside. It reminded us of walking in England.  

At noon we arrived at the tiny village of Lascabanes as the bells tolled and it was good timing to have lunch at a small roadside cafe. We had a large ham baguette made at our accommodation and whilst tasty it would have been the hardest bread to bite into and chew. It was quite a challenge! We also indulged in coffees, cokes, mineral water and icecream. 

We thought we only had about nine kilometres left after lunch and we were refreshed after our lunch break. However, it did grow very warm and the glare from the track was strong. There wasn’t too much to engage our attention and we were keen to get out of the sun. 

Our accommodation was a kilometre on the far side of the old town of Montcuq. 

When we arrived the hotel was shut and a sign at the front door said opening was at six o’clock! I restrained from having a meltdown! We were about to ring the number on the board when a young, friendly woman came out onto the hot pavement and welcomed us in very good English. We were so relieved. She quickly showed us to our rooms and brought us cold drinks with ice. She also brought an extra chair onto Neil’s terrace and we sat and recuperated. It was good to get out of the hot sun.

As we we were about to move from the pavement Aussie Jeremy popped his head out of the first floor window and said something to the effect of “No rooms at the Inn!” with his friendly smile. 

We had an interesting discussion with our host at dinner. She used to walk in Australia and New Zealand and it was good to get an insight into how things are done culturally in France. Apparently I have been rude in leaving a morsel of bread on my plate instead of eating it all!