Day 42 - Saint Palais - Larceveau - 12 June

Time Departed: 8.30am

Time Arrived: 2.00pm

Distance: 19kms 

Cumulative Distance: 744kms

Percentage Completed: 97% (1,200,900 steps) 

Weather: Cold, rain 

Accommodation: Chambre et Table d’Hotes Arantzeta 

Feelings: Neil - Relaxed, Henk - Relaxed,  Di - Relaxed

For days and days the weather forecast has been predicting rains and storms and they haven’t eventuated. Today, they got it right! It started raining at six o’clock this morning and it didn’t give up all day. As we had diverted off the main route to Saint Palais we had to rejoin it. It took us nearly an hour to rejoin the GR65 from the GR654 and it was a steady climb on a minor road. We then climbed for a further thirty minutes on a good stony path. The water was pouring down the path. 

We reached a plateau where there was a small chalet, Chapel of Soyarce. We had been walking for six kilometres and we were drenched. The chapel wasn’t open but there was a very small shelter attached and we took refuge for about fifteen minutes and had a bite to eat. We had to move on as we were getting cold. 

We descended from the plateau and the path then became very muddy. There was quite a number of long earthworms who seemed to be equally drenched as us!

Canadians Penny and Penny caught up with us and they planned on stopping at Ostabat. We also planned on having an early lunch and break at Ostabat but when we arrived the cafe wasn’t open. Undeterred Neil and I roamed around the little village and down a narrow lane we found a very tiny local store and bar. By this time “the Penny’s” had walked on. We spent forty-five minutes having coffees and baguettes of local ham and pate in the warm and dry cafe.

The route then got considerably worse with the water rising. Eventually, there was nothing we could do but to walk through it. Our socks and boots were drenched. At one stage I slipped and fell on my back like a turtle and was covered in mud down my backpack, jacket and trousers. I can now say falling backwards on soft mud and water does not hurt!

We arrived at the little village of Larceveau at about half past one and we were deciding whether to keep walking another 1.5kms to our accommodation at the farm or call into the hotel/bar to have a break. From the hotel’s window the Penny’s were waving to us so we called in and had a great, hot vegetable soup. Our instruction from Macs Adventures was to ring our accommodation for collection and as Penny and Penny had finished eating their lunch they rang and were collected by our lovely, young host. We did the same about half an hour later.

On arrival we removed all our wet gear and stuffed our boots with newspapers to soak up the water. We immediately had hot showers to warm us and I hopped under the doona to keep warm. Both Henk and I had a nap whilst it rained heavily outside. Quite a wind started as well.
We had a delicious three-course dinner with the two Penny’s. The large stone farmhouse in which we are staying was originally a barn from the seventeenth century and it took two years to be renovated by the young couple ten years ago. 

Tomorrow after forty-three days we reach our destination of St Jean-Pied-de-Port. It’s been a wonderful journey!