Day 43 - Larceveau - St Jean-Pied-de-Port - 13 June

Time Departed: 8.30am

Time Arrived: 1.15pm

Distance: 19kms 

Cumulative Distance: 763kms

Percentage Completed: 100% (1,228,000 steps) 

Weather: Cold, light rain, overcast

Accommodation: Hotel du Central 

Feelings: Neil - Excited, Henk - Fantastic,  Di - Excited 

We did it and what a wonderful experience it has been! When we set out for this final day it was raining and quite windy but thankfully it cleared in the first hour. We set a cracking pace due to firstly walking on tarmac rather than on the muddy and flooded paths of yesterday and secondly our keenness to arrive at St Jean-Pied-de-Port. The creeks alongside the small country lanes were high, muddy and flowing quickly. The Pyrenees could not be seen again today due to the low cloud so we were pleased to have seen them a few days ago. 

We had our final breakfast with the Canadian Penny’s in the large dining room of the farmhouse.  Michelle, our host, had gone to the boulangerie for freshly baked bread and croissants. We had these with an array of home made jams. Michelle was an excellent host as she washed our socks and dried our outer gear ready for today’s final walk.

We passed quite a few sheep as their milk is used for making local cheese. We didn’t have a break until 11.30am when we reached St-Jean-le-Vieux and we had walked fifteen kilometres. We had an early lunch of about forty minutes before completing the final four kilometres. As we left St-Jean-le-Vieux it started to rain and during the last kilometre it rained heavily so we arrived a quite drenched. 

We counted down the last four kilometres. We reached our destination at the town’s old gates and walked underneath them onto a steep cobblestone path. We stopped and congratulated each other on completing our six week journey and then descended into the old town. Le Puy-en-Velay seemed such a long time ago. The pilgrim’s office was shut for lunch so we decided to head directly to our hotel to get out of the rain. 

Our hotel room wasn’t quite ready so we went straight to the bar to celebrate. It was good to be indoors and relax. The last time we were in St Jean nearly five years ago we were excited and apprehensive as we were about to embark on the Camino Frances and climb The Pyrenees. 

After showering and washing our clothes we set out to explore the old town and get our final stamp for our Credential at the pilgrim’s office. 

Our plan was to get a t-shirt with the Le Puy-en-Velay to St Jean-Pied-de-Port section on it but there didn’t seem to be any. Neil and Henk then settled on very smart French black caps. The river which four years ago was calm with lovely reflections of the nearby buildings was a raging, muddy torrent. Our hotel is located alongside the river and we can hear the roar of the water from our room. The rain has been causing major flooding issues where we have walked during the past week so we have been fortunate to be just ahead of it.

We met up with our fellow walkers at our hotel bar from five o’clock. It was good to see English Kevin and Charlotte, Scottish Tom who said he has dissolved somewhat due to walking through flooded paths and the Canadian Penny’s. It was a great evening and added to the excitement was Kevin and Charlotte’s news of the arrival of twin grandchildren - Daisy and Charles born two days previously. So we toasted the walk and the arrival of the twins. 

This has been an excellent walk. We have been lucky to have mostly good weather. Walking in the springtime has meant we have seen the landscape at its best with the many and varied beautiful flowers, the newly planted fields and lush green pastures. The scenery, the food, the different architecture, the friendly hosts and the wonderful accomodation have given us an unforgettable walking experience. 

Enriching this experience has been meeting the different walkers who have come in and out of our journey. Firstly Sydney Anne who we were fortunate to meet on our first night in Le Puy-en-Velay and then spent the first six days with us and kept in regular contact as she walked ahead, Adelaide Cathy and Bree who we met on our first day climbing that first long hill out of Le Puy-en-Velay and we last saw in Conques, Sydney John who we also last saw in Conques, Scottish (sorry not English but lives in Cornwall) Tom who kept appearing around unlikely corners and became affectionally known as Wally, English Charlotte and Kevin who we met overlooking Condom and the Canadian two Penny’s who could speed along the paths like Speedy Gonzales. 

We have been fortunate and grateful to have the health and fitness to undertake such an adventure! 

Day 42 - Saint Palais - Larceveau - 12 June

Time Departed: 8.30am

Time Arrived: 2.00pm

Distance: 19kms 

Cumulative Distance: 744kms

Percentage Completed: 97% (1,200,900 steps) 

Weather: Cold, rain 

Accommodation: Chambre et Table d’Hotes Arantzeta 

Feelings: Neil - Relaxed, Henk - Relaxed,  Di - Relaxed

For days and days the weather forecast has been predicting rains and storms and they haven’t eventuated. Today, they got it right! It started raining at six o’clock this morning and it didn’t give up all day. As we had diverted off the main route to Saint Palais we had to rejoin it. It took us nearly an hour to rejoin the GR65 from the GR654 and it was a steady climb on a minor road. We then climbed for a further thirty minutes on a good stony path. The water was pouring down the path. 

We reached a plateau where there was a small chalet, Chapel of Soyarce. We had been walking for six kilometres and we were drenched. The chapel wasn’t open but there was a very small shelter attached and we took refuge for about fifteen minutes and had a bite to eat. We had to move on as we were getting cold. 

We descended from the plateau and the path then became very muddy. There was quite a number of long earthworms who seemed to be equally drenched as us!

Canadians Penny and Penny caught up with us and they planned on stopping at Ostabat. We also planned on having an early lunch and break at Ostabat but when we arrived the cafe wasn’t open. Undeterred Neil and I roamed around the little village and down a narrow lane we found a very tiny local store and bar. By this time “the Penny’s” had walked on. We spent forty-five minutes having coffees and baguettes of local ham and pate in the warm and dry cafe.

The route then got considerably worse with the water rising. Eventually, there was nothing we could do but to walk through it. Our socks and boots were drenched. At one stage I slipped and fell on my back like a turtle and was covered in mud down my backpack, jacket and trousers. I can now say falling backwards on soft mud and water does not hurt!

We arrived at the little village of Larceveau at about half past one and we were deciding whether to keep walking another 1.5kms to our accommodation at the farm or call into the hotel/bar to have a break. From the hotel’s window the Penny’s were waving to us so we called in and had a great, hot vegetable soup. Our instruction from Macs Adventures was to ring our accommodation for collection and as Penny and Penny had finished eating their lunch they rang and were collected by our lovely, young host. We did the same about half an hour later.

On arrival we removed all our wet gear and stuffed our boots with newspapers to soak up the water. We immediately had hot showers to warm us and I hopped under the doona to keep warm. Both Henk and I had a nap whilst it rained heavily outside. Quite a wind started as well.
We had a delicious three-course dinner with the two Penny’s. The large stone farmhouse in which we are staying was originally a barn from the seventeenth century and it took two years to be renovated by the young couple ten years ago. 

Tomorrow after forty-three days we reach our destination of St Jean-Pied-de-Port. It’s been a wonderful journey! 

Day 41 - Aroue - Saint Palais - 11 June

Time Departed: 8.10am

Time Arrived: 12.40pm

Distance: 19kms 

Cumulative Distance: 727kms

Percentage Completed: 95% (1,176,200 steps) 

Weather: Early fog, sunny and cool, storm clouds 

Accommodation: Hotel du Midi 

Feelings: Neil - Happy, Henk - Fantastic,  Di - Feliz!

At seven thirty we were the last of the fourteen at the gite to have breakfast. Whilst we ate our usual French breakfast of baguette and jam the walkers buzzed around us doing their final packing of lunches or buying goods from the small shop in the dining room. The shop had the makings for snacks, lunches and dinners. We ordered a picnic lunch the previous evening and we each received a half ham baguette which were enormous, chips, banana and apple, cake and mineral water.

At ten past eight we set out in our newly washed clothes and we were the last to leave the gite. The GR65 path diverted shortly before Aroue but we decided to walk up the road to see the small village. There were no shops so we could see why the gite sold supplies. For a Monday morning it was very quiet.

The architecture has dramatically changed and the stone-walls with green and blue shutters have been replaced with white walls and red-brown shutters. It is now looking very Spanish. Signs are now in Basque and in French. 

Once again we saw The Pyrenees and they are getting closer. Our walk was an easy one on high country lanes with good views over the farmland and to the mountains.

We have seen for a number of days tall empty cages on the sides of farms and we haven’t known what they were used for. We were thinking they were for birds but today we got our answer as we passed one with last season’s corn in it. 

About three kilometres from Saint Palais we found a picnic table and ate more of our picnic lunch. We didn’t stay too long as we could see dark clouds building around us and rain was predicted for the early afternoon. We crossed a small river into Saint Palais and it did feel like a Spanish town. 

We found a cafe and had a coffee as we were early. As we sat down it started to sprinkle so we made it to the town just in time. Our hotel is in a great position overlooking the town’s plaza. There were many people having lunch at the covered outdoor eating areas and siesta time had started. Penny and Penny had already arrived as they took the main road into town and they said it was very busy. I’m glad we took a quiet country road into the town. 

We showered and rested until four o’clock when we met Neil and walked around the small town. We had pre-dinner drinks and our meal with Canadians Penny and Penny who also have their walk organised by the same company as ours, Macs Adventures. 

By coming to St Palais on a diversion recommended by Macs Adventures we are taking three days to arrive at St Jean whilst the others we have met will arrive at St Jean tomorrow or early Wednesday morning. We will arrive at St Jean by early afternoon. It’s been another great day on the walk. 

Day 40 - Navarrenx - Aroue - 10 June

Time Departed: 8.30am

Time Arrived: 2.15pm

Distance: 19kms 

Cumulative Distance: 708kms

Percentage Completed: 92% (1,148,500 steps) 

Weather: Light fog for most of the morning, overcast 

Accommodation: Bohoteguia Ferme Gite d’etape

Feelings: Neil - Contented, Henk - Great,  Di - Relaxed

This was a shorter day with far less of the ascents and descents of yesterday. We moved into the French  Basque region which makes up part of the northern region of Basque country in France and Spain. There were more fields of wheat and corn and sheep were grazing. 

As it was a shorter distance we firstly walked around Navarrenx to see it before we left. As we couldn’t get into our room until later yesterday and meeting the group for drinks didn’t allow us to see Navarrenx. We left the walled town through the historic gate, St Antoine and crossed the Gave d’Oloron River. 

There were no places to stop for morning tea at ten thirty so we just stood at the side of the path and had the food we bought in Navarrenx. Charlotte and Kevin passed us and we then caught up with them at a pilgrim stop at a pate factory. The factory had a picnic shelter and offered its products for sale as well as drinks. We sat for about thirty minutes chatting and having an early lunch. From this point we had eight kilometres to go and the weather was getting very cloudy.

We had long stretches of mud again due to the overnight rain. Our conversation revolves around whether to try and clean the boots when we get to St Jean or just dump them. 

With only a kilometre and fifteen minutes to go until our destination the weather was threatening to rain. We found that the route had changed and we had to walk another 700 metres. We came across French walkers having lunch in a stiff, cool breeze. Even when the French have a walking picnic they bring great food!

We walked quickly to avoid having to put on our rain gear and we made it to our Gite just as it started to spit. It sits on a farm about one kilometre from Aroue. We were warmly welcomed by a young French woman who has walked part of the Camino. The gite focuses on walkers with a small store for lunch supplies and the washing is done for free. We threw all our muddy, smelly clothes into the joint washing basket at four o’clock and it was ready for collection at six. 

Although we have private rooms as opposed to the dormitories we ate as group of eighteen at a long table in the Gite’s well-organised dining room. We sat with Ellie and Brian from NZ who are very experienced walkers. 

The forecast for tomorrow is rain again but so far we have been lucky. Only three days to go until we walk into St Jean-Pied-de-Port. We’re getting excited. 

Day 39 - Argagnon - Navarrenx - 9 June 

Time Departed: 8.00am

Time Arrived: 3.00pm

Distance: 26 kms 

Cumulative Distance: 689kms

Percentage Completed: 89% (1,116,500 steps) 

Weather: Overcast and humid in the morning, warm and sunny in the afternoon

Accommodation: Le Relais du Jacquet 

Feelings: Neil - Happy, Henk - Good,  Di - Happy

There was a storm overnight but it didn’t wake us. We had breakfast with Raquel the Pig. She was still in her bed snoring quite loudly and she seemed quite oblivious to us! 

Andrew our host was catching a bus at eight o’clock to go to watch the broadcast Union match between New Zealand and France in a nearby town. Raquel was being put out prior to his departure.

We walked the first two kilometres to Maslacq where we picked up lunch supplies from a small local store. There, we met Tom and we stayed together for the day’s walk. 

It was a longer walk today and there were quite a few steep ascents and descents. Some of them quite taxed us. This is probably to be expected as we approach The Pyrenees. We could frequently see the beautiful snow-capped mountains during the morning.

After walking about twelve kilometres we arrived at a very tiny hamlet, Sauvelade. We had about a forty minute break having a coffee and early lunch. From Sauvelade we had fourteen kilometres to go. There was a very steep, long walk on tarmac up to Burgnein. I had to call “rest” which I haven’t had to do too many times on this walk. It took us up quite high on a ridge and the views over the lush, green countryside was extensive. 

We passed another large duck farm which the French say is for both the meat and for Fois Gras. 

About four kilometres from the accommodation we caught up with Charlotte and Kevin having a break. It was good to see them again and it was good news from Charlotte that she had overcome the ongoing problem with one of her her boots. We chatted for a while before setting out for the last stretch. It was getting quite warm by this stage.

When we arrived at our accommodation our room wasn’t quite ready. The floors were still wet so we waited in the garden for them to dry. Tom is not staying at the same accommodation as us so we arranged to meet at a local outdoor bar at five thirty. We were joined by the Canadians, Penny and Penny and Charlotte and Kevin and we had a lovely time chatting. With the exception of Tom we were all staying at the same accommodation and we returned to our hotel at seven thirty for dinner. Our host cooked a delicious four-course meal for fourteen people. Six of us spoke English and eight spoke French. Our host could speak English and Charlotte and Kevin can speak intermediate French so we were able to converse quite well. 

Today’s walk was difficult in parts but it was good to be walking high in the hills again with lovely views over the countryside. We now have only four more walking days to go to arrive at St Jean-Pied-de- Port.

Day 38 - Casteide Candau - Argagnon - 8 June

Time Departed: 8.15am

Time Arrived: 1.20pm

Distance: 22 kms (18kms walking + 4kms driven)

Cumulative Distance: 663kms

Percentage Completed: 86% (1,078,500 steps)

Weather: Warm and sunny 

Accommodation: Chambres D’Hote Arret et Aller 

Feelings: Neil - Feliz, Henk - Bueno,  Di - Happy

Our French host, Giles, drove the five of us to Pomps to recommence the walk and this reduced the planned walking distance by four kilometres. This time it was Neil’s turn to sit in the back of the van with the backpacks and hang on as we twisted around the country roads. We took the walk slowly as the distance was significantly shorter than yesterday. The countryside has changed quickly during the past three days. It has become more hilly with vast expanses of lush green pastures and there are, once again, a lot of animals including cows, horses and donkeys. 

As the day was clear we had very good views of The Pyrenees in the distance for most of the day. 

At the small village of Castillon whilst taking a photo of a traditional provincial house Tom popped his head around the corner. It was great to see him again and we continued walking together for the remainder of the day. He had news of fellow walkers we had met and he had come across. 

We walked nine kilometres to a cafe at the small town of Arthez de Bearn arriving at eleven o’clock. Shortly after English Charlotte and Kevin arrived so we had a good old chinwag. We bought lunch at the boulangerie and carried it with us to our night’s accommodation. 

The remaining nine kilometres had good views over the countryside. We are now passing many more rustic barns again and they are hard to resist photographing.

We entered the region of Béarn (home of the Bearnaise Sauce) and arrived at our Chambres D’Hote early and, not surprisingly, the rooms weren’t ready. We didn’t mind as we had our lunch to eat and we joined the two Canadian women, Penny and Penny, on the terrace. They had arrived an hour and a half before us. The accommodation is two kilometres before the village of Maslacq and sits amongst farmland. It was originally built in 1712 and is typical of the area with the long top verandah. The large house is owned and renovated by Andrew who originates from Cornwall. This is the first time that we have had an English host since our walk began over five weeks ago. 

There is a menagerie of animals including turkeys, ducks, geese, chickens and an enormous pig named after the actress, Raquel Welsh. Raquel, a Vietnamese Pot-Belly Pig, which is five years old sleeps in the dining room at night in her own large basket covered in a blanket. During the afternoon I fed her juice from a water bottle. She is a thoroughly loved and spoilt pig!

For the first time since our walk started five weeks ago the weather was suitable to eat outdoors. It was a very pleasant evening with Andrew and the two Pennys from Canada.